...working on putting a damn car together. I'd had some idle problems with my Lumina, so I had previously replaced the fuel filter, and a month or so ago, took the upper portion of the engine apart, to check the PCV valve, and the ERG valve. Like I said, a month or more passed, and I had a new PCV valve/hose, and the EGR removed. Fucking bitch to get apart, but when I did (today,) I cleaned the fuck out of it with a dental scraper and some carburetor cleaner. Note the difference between the far right valve and the other two: Finished product: Ready to mount: ...an entire day passed, and the car still acts the same goddamn way it did before I started. At the end of the day, I'd have been much happier if this had fixed the problem, but if nothing else, I've learned how to take something apart, let a few weeks slip by before picking it back up, and still find myself able to put the damn thing back together. Y'all should've seen me - decked out in the height of mechanic fashion... Sporting a set of Dickies "coveralls" that I'd picked up at work, and feeling the part. (Maybe it was just the 'tug' I felt at the seam that divided my balls every time I raised either arm, I don't know...) I feel sorry for those auto shop people, though... I'd hate to let the entire upper portion of my day's wardrobe rest on the floor of a mechanic's bathroom while I took a shit, and then zip it back up so I can appreciate the pungent aroma of a neglected bathroom floor three inches away from my face all day. I learned a valuable lesson today, too... During my entire day in the driveway, I managed to meet my new neighbor that lives two houses up the street - he left his driveway this morning with a flat tire, went back to the front of his house, and about 30 minutes later came over asking if I had a jack. Ended up going over there with two of my jacks, as his 'scissor jack' had folded up on him, leaving his right front disc brake rotor supporting the weight of the car on the inner rim of his flat tire wheel (as he was taking the wheel off.) Couldn't get my jack under the right front side of the frame, so I used one jack to raise the front left side, then a second to raise the front right, put the doughnut on... and got an open invite for BBQ from his wife - all in under 10 minutes, I might add. Next time, I think I'll just wear my blue jeans when I work in the driveway.
So are you thinking she wants you to bring the meatballs to the bar-b-q? What is the Lumina doing by the way?
Sputtering? With the older vacume actuated EGR valves you could close the valve yourself with your hand and the sputtering would stop then you knew it was the EGR. I suppose on this new one that solonoid valve is actuated with 12V dc? same thing jump it and if the problem goes away viola there is your answer. You just got to answer two other questions. 1. Test the solonoid in the first place to make sure it works. 2. Is the solonoid in normal open or normal closed position? What do the flash codes read?
Check the fuel line while you're at it, no use replacing the filter if the line is clogged. And grats on the bbq invite, just be sure to wait until they're liqoured up before you throw the three way suggestions out.
SHIT. Damned no-edit function... That was supposed to be a 'preview' to see if I'd had grouped the quotes correctly, as 2 ppl referenced the BBQ, and also had Q's about the car... Appropriate response to follow shortly...
I'll believe it when I actually get the invite... Two evenings before, I noticed two of their young kids stop playing, and staring intently as I disassembled my AK on the back patio and cleaned it - before long, someone went outside and brought them back in. The wife was rather attractive, though, I'll admit, and her handshake was much tighter than the limp fish handshake I got from her husband... Hmmm... Well... What it's doing is... Running fine until the car heats up (20 min. @ idle, 10-15 w/ city driving.) Once the engine gets to a certain temperature, it seems (and the thermometer never goes past the halfway mark - ever,) to develop a 'rough' idle, that will intermittently 'drop' at first - only by a hair, and when it heats up past then, eventually, the car seems to start to choke itself (on a gradually increasing gradient, relative to the temperature reaching 'normal') - the car will lose power, and hesitate, idle drops when accelerating, cruising, or just plain coasting... until the point when the engine finally says "fuck it" and starts idling slow enough to kill itself. I have a both Haynes and a Chilton's manual for the car (courtesy of the 40-something squirting broad I used to date, the two things I didn't return with the rest of her shit.) Going through their checklists, I first replaced the fuel filter. Didn't solve the problem (but was long overdue, looking at the grime that poured out of the feed side of it once removed.) Next, I checked the PCV valve (which required taking the intake manifold off.) I had already bought a new one, and a new hose, and after finding the original (which still seemed good, as it rattled, but for a $2 part, I didn't give a shit - replaced it anyway,) I looked at the next item on the troubleshooting list... The EGR valve. It seemed perfectly reasonable for that to be the problem, as the car would run until it heated the engine to a certain point, and then the idle problem would arise, and after that started, it would hesitate intermittently during acceleration, eventually throwing the engine into a stage where it would idle low, choke itself, and kill the engine. My thought was that since the EGR valve would recirculate exhaust into the intake manifold, if it were stuck open, once the engine heated up, it would eventually kill the engine due to an abundance of exhaust feeding into the manifold (and even though it's a combination of three electronically-operated valves, I thought by cleaning the mechanical portions, it might fix it - hence the pictures above.) Turns out, this is not the case. Another interesting point that might be of help - while the engine is running, in park or neutral, I cannot rev the engine past 4K RPM. Granted, I don't remember ever trying to do so before this problem, but I'm sure I could redline @ 6K it before without any problem. Another possible 'pink elephant' in the whole equation, I didn't realize it until I turned the car on for the first time in a month, but the exhaust feed into the EGR itself had been bent to the point that it caused the throttle body to remain open - after ignition, it would rev itself as if I were placing the pedal on the floor, just as before (would not run over 4K RPM) - after taking it apart again, re-bending the metal exhaust hose, and getting it to normal again, it still gave me the same trouble as before I'd tried any of these attempts. It's an ODB 1, and I just found the schematic on which pinouts to close to get the car to flash it's diagnostic morse code, and have not done that yet, but hopefully will get around to it soon (it's already going to be a busy week - I had hoped to fix this shit over the weekend.) Hope this answers everyone's questions all in one swoop, and maybe someone here might have some insight or experience on what the problem is. I kinda miss driving that car - it really is a practical automobile, and quite capable (performance-wise) when it comes to these annoying kids that pass their piss-ant Hondas off as high-performance dragsters by adding a coffee can to the exhaust pipe and covering the paint with Asian lettering... (And I miss listening to the Clarion head unit & Kenwood speakers I put in it)... :frown:
This might be way out in left field, but have you checked your catalytic converter? They will cause a headache like that if they get clogged. It doesnt sound like the ignition, with the running ok till it heats up. This is usally a fried sensor somewhere in the system. I had a Ram one time that acted real screwy, the brakes would get mushy, the speedometer wouldnt work, then it would jump up, Brake light would come on. I replaced about 4 sensors before getting the right one. Its amazing what a simple CPU can do if it gets the wrong data. You would think they would have it run a certain way. But it just ran like crap.
Phat could be right and there could be other issues the easy way is to simply check the diagnostic codes. Honestly. O2 sensor is a likely culprit or. Your throttle position sensor if it uses one and from your description I think it does.. Should be a rheostat you can test with a volt meter the position by placing the meter at DC 20v or whatever setting is close (could be milivolts) but jist of it is this looking at the meter and evenly pressing the peddle should show a smooth increase in the voltage reading. If it jumps irratically or drops off then there is your problem. The clue was that it was open when it shouldn't have been. Thats assuming its not entirely mechanical. Oh and did I ask about those codes? On the o2 sensor. Take it out and clean it. use a hot propane torch to heat it till the residue turns whit and flakes off then put it back and see if the behaviour changes for the better. Even if it does replace the O2 sensor anyways. Oh and one question. What doe the codes read? You han find out with a simple paper clip usually.
Lomo now that I re-read your post about what is happening the throttle sensor should not change because the temp changed. Something is out of whack though like on the computer end or the Temp-Sensor or ... I dunno
I still have yet to read the codes (don't have a reader, but I know what two pins to close to get the dashboard 'flashes' to cross-reference.) Last night, after I got home from out of town, I revved the car up a bit in the driveway until it started acting funny, then took it out for a spin (uphill, in case I had to coast home,) and I noticed that the temp gauge was actually lower than the middle position when it started to choke up. Main thing I wanted to try out was driving it with the electrical plug pulled from the EGR valve, and did that before I even started it. I have the day off tomorrow, so maybe I'll get a chance to fuck with it then if I manage to get around to listing a few things on ebay first... (Anyone want a Wii + Wii Fit + Play + GH III???) And, Dwaine - I told you not to put one of those curved glass dildos on the lathe, or else you'd have problems... But did you listen to me? Nooooooo... I hope you enjoyed that final rotary prostate tickle, cuz I'm through fixing your lathes.
I just bought a new Wii (for my kids) we picked up a couple of games to (all this is for christmas). I dont know if I want the Fit to tell me how fat I am. Not cool.
there's a technique to shitting with boilersuits without having them sit in piss and bog-grime.. you need to roll the upper part down and then it's just like pulling down your pants but a bit bulkier.... you can have that tip for free
Wow... I'm flattered you chose to come out of your lurking retirement for the sole reason of imparting your coverall advice to me... I'd never heard of them referred to as "boilersuits" before, either... I like the term, though. I have a tan pair I hesitated donning after my excitement in the navy blue suit, but I think I'm going to wear it... Where the hell you been, bro?
