Yeah, my car problems are full throttle now, not only does it accelerate slowly, it now just doesn't seem to accelerate at all. If you happen to stop the car, it locks down. It kills the battery from just the little green light around the key hole being on. And it now how funkadelic smells coming from the engine. oh right, it is also louder than a harley. I think it's time to sell the shit for scrap.
The car is still running, and it is 16 years old. That is not a piece of shit. 1.Change the fuel filter. 2. Pour a can of Sea Foam in the tank. 3. Buy a new battery. 4. Keep the oil level full. 5. Drive it until it quits. 6. THEN sell it for scrap.
Get the alternator and your computer sensors checked. One faulty sensor will have your car running like shit. Seafoam will make your car run smoothly for a little while and then it will go back to idling rough. I thought Toyotas were supposed to run forever?
That sucks. Car payments are shitty too. Just holding a payment book with 60 payment stubs is fucking depressing. I have 58 more to go and then I will own my car and it won't be worth shit.
1. Punch out the window 2. Hide it in your buddy's garage (permitting people can stand you) 3. Collect insurance 4. Pay off friend (or blackmail as an accessory) 5. Buy $500 car, drugs and a couple of hookers.
I only got liability unfortunately, as appetizing as snorting a line of coke off a filipino hookers ass is.
And the code is? Random and intermittent? Or is there a pattern. You mentioned hesitation I think and a smell. at partial throttle, wide open throttle, any throttle? When its hot, cold, any time. While under a load, or decelerating down a hill? I assume that 94 is throttle body injected? Check for intake leaks like from a hose more likely use a flammable propellant while it is idling like propane without being lit. When you put the gas near a leaky vacume line the motor rpm will change. Bypass the egr and the o2 pump. all these questions are legit but stupid to even bother with when you can simply check the codes. I think Autozone will check them for you free even. Oh and Pukey had the most sound advice BTW. And it's prolly an o2 sensor. Oh and this is a serious question is it right at exactly 150k that the problem occurred?
Pretty much, and it is rather random. I hear mild popping sounds. Which...uhh...yeah. And it's 91, not 94.
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Toyota-Repair-832/91-Camry-hesitates-stalls.htm Pukey was dead on it runs in a closed loop emissions system as do all modern cars. One sensor throws things out of whack. Logical diagnosis becomes harder because.... Well if you can think of a closed loop emissions system like this. It's just a long complex algebraic equation. A= Oxygen F = Gasoline. Air is allowed into the engine by using the cylinders and valves as simple air pump. Gasoline is injected in using an injector using pulse width timing. You already have two dynamic variables that change. Open the throttle and allow more air in and the motor will go lean and detonate. So to account for that there is a mass air flow sensor sensing more air and feeding this information to a calculator. This changed the formula for optimal fuel to air mixture and the injector pulse width is increased proportionate to the air increase. There you have a way overly simplified explanation of your air fuel intake system. We left out E.xhaust G.as R.ecirculation (egr) and the Air pump. And then the various effects of intake air leaks, fuel octane, humidity (happens when it rains?) barometric pressure..... blah ...blah Then you have that air pump I mentioned called a motor. Valve timing (timing chain worn?) variable valve advance/retard. (valves worn? Compression gage is relatively cheep screws right into the spark plug hole). Move on to the spark that makes the boom. Worn distributer, worn coil, bad plugs or wires? Spark timing advance/retard. Then the exhaust and that all important O2 sensor measuring the amount of Oxygen / Fuel ration before and after the catalytic converter. It will provide end result calculation Striving for that scientifically calculated number I forget like 14.7 to 1 (slightly higher fuel makes better power per economy but with screws with the Cats ability to scrub those toxins from your exhaust.) they call it the “Stoimetric” ratio. An air flow sensor measures the air charge. Pyrometers measure the air temp (cold = denser air etc.) a knock sensor measures existence or pre-detonation. Vacuum sensors measure intake vacuum. This list goes on the calculation constantly changes and the car runs smooth. You have to get the codes to see the real picture. On a modern car (ah like pre-1970) the sensors and there adjustment function change things. What looks like a vacuum leak can be something totally different. Like a bag MAF giving an incorrect reading and causing the computer to lean out the injectors. Damn it get the freaking codes.
It's probably an oxygen sensor or clogged catalytic converter. 91 Camry should easily go over 200k miles. My Civic has 160k on it and runs like a top. I did have an accord with over 320k miles, it still pulled good and would scoot. 91 Ex 5sp. I have seen cars act real retarded when the coverter gets clogged. You can unbolt it, and crank the car up, it will be really loud, but if the motor runs and evens out, you will know that its the converter. It may be loud now cause a popped seal (exhaust leak). Where you at? I'll give you 100.00 bucks for it, if you are in a reasonable distance.
I just bought my wife a white 2006 Lexus IS250. It is sweeet. Now I have her old 2003 Yukon, so the grocery-getter is no more. That's right, phatty I do not drive a van anymore!! Whee!!
Big Pimpin! So did you trade in the 'van' for the Lexus? Or did you just keep it so you and the wife can get jiggy in it from time to time?
Did you get an Aerosmith CD just so you could play Back in the Saddle Again? I'll regret getting rid of my Tahoe I know.
