for two paint rollers and a pan. The paint rollers kept coming loose and the pan was too small to glide the rollers on. One roller didn't even roll. Just an FYI if you are at Family Dollar and think you found a bargain. I have learned that you can't get cheap trashbags, toilet paper, glass cleaner or paint rollers. The generic version of the Mr Clean Magic eraser does work. It's like 2 for a dollar. Can't beat that. Of course, those were my exact words when I saw the paint rollers and pan... I have been breathing paint fumes in a little room for 3 hours. I think my lungs are a nice shade of Ralph Lauren's 'Plantation'. I know other parts of me are.
Yeah, if I was going to spend that much money on RL paint, I would splurge on some nice Rollers. I painted my sons' room a couple of weeks ago. My oldest is a Texas Longhorn Fan and the other is a Oklahoma Sooner fan. So I primed the room a gray then covered one side in Texas Burnt Orange and the other in Oklahoma Crimson. I ran a white strip down the middle to seperate the sides. It looks great and the boys love it, maybe I will take some photos. Tell me, you primed your walls, I thought it was bullshit when I painted the living room. Now that I did the Kids' room I know Primer really brings out the color.
No. I picked out the designer color and got cheaper paint. Not super cheap, but cheaper than Ralph Lauren. They always have the best colors, so I pick their paint and use it with something cheaper. Ralph Lauren paint isn't much difference price-wise, but if I can save 5 bucks I will. That's about a gallon of gas these days!
Post pictures. I'm trying to turn this place into a home improvement forum. Not really, but I would like to see it. I should have used primer but I am lazy. I about blacked out a few times painting. I have zero strength these days.
I just go in and find the 'oops' paint, at 5.00 a can, get a couple of shades I might like, then mix them together. That way I can still get quality paint, at a fraction of the cost, and get a shade close to what I want. Always get a some white just in case you want to lighten it up. I have one of those nice mixers that goes on the end of my drill, so it can whip it up in a matter of minutes.
~WARNING~ Home Depot thread. I need some advise: When I bought my house a few years ago, I was in a big hurry to get in and wanted to get the living room painted ASAP. There was a paintable border in the living room and hall I didn't want to have to dick with it so I just painted over it. I'm now wishing I hadn't because I hate it. I'm going to be painting the living room again but this time I want that border down. If I sand the edge will it blur it enough that it won't look that bad? I really want that shit down. I almost don't care of the paint is thinner towards the top and there is a weird line running around the wall. I hate border. They had it all over the place and I had to take it all down.
I dont know if this will work 100% or not, but get the removal stuff, It's not kilz its the stuff for removing wallpaper/glue, and the spikey roller (pokes small holes in the paper). Roll it over the paper, then apply the remover with a rag or sponge, let it sit then pull the paper down. I dont know if heat will help or not, I had to do it in a bathroom that had some kind of jungle print all over it (like big ferns and shit). I had to spackle some spots that removed part of the sheetrock paper, but it was a small price to pay. Actually, if the line is all that is showing maybe you can run the seam with putty and smooth it out with a sponge (a damp sponge will kick sheetrock putty's ass).
I user Ralph Lauren White on my cabinets. It covered well but it went on thick as molasses. So I thinned it our with "flow ease" on the advise of a wise man. I found that I could cut a line much better while painting in the trim detail however then the Ralf Lauren paint did not cover as well. Bottom line the wife bought the Ralph Lauren not me. It's not all that great of a paint in my opinion. and Phat is right if you pick up enough to finish otherwise its hard to get a match if you do not have enough. But its pennies on the dollar to get the returns and usually some primo brand paint.
I had a room remod once with really ugly paper. I think they must have glued on with epoxy or superglue. The other rooms in that house I simply painted over the paper. Would not have looked good for boarder though.
Geez. I hadn't even thought of what a bitch it was going to be to get the shit down. I know for regular border, hot water and fabric softener mixed up in a bottle really takes it down well. I also learned that to remove peel and stick floor tile, use a hairdryer and it comes up soooo much easier. If I was any good at anything, I'd just knock the walls down and start over. I do know a guy that refinished drywall, so I could always go that route if I mess it up too much.
The drywall is pretty easy to hang, you could actually cut the section out that you dont like, then just replace that top piece. If the border is 12" tall, You could cut it on the edge and do most of the room with just a couple of pieces of sheetrock. I think 48" is about the standard width.
Or even better just buy the really thin drywall and go over the exsisting wall paper and all. Works like a charm if it matches up with the trim and all, like around the doors and such so its not so noticable. Someone should come up with 1/8" drywall. Would have to be less brittle of course but just think. You get one of those homes with fist holes in the walls and crappy patch jobs just drywall over the whole room and make it look perfect.
I'm using that for my shelf bottoms. Louan or hardboard 1/8" with the glossy painted side white so it's easy to cleanup. But it would make sense to use the non glossy type not sure if you could easially make the seams match up though. But just think use liquid nails setup a table saw in the middlr of the room to make precision cuts. Would be easy thats for sure. And laugh your ass off the next time someone tries to put their hand through it. Haha! Perfect for renters. Goes to collect rent sees cast on renters hand and notices slight smudge on wall.
When we built our kitchen cabinets I went with 3/4 treated plywood. Then layed a layer of liner over it. That way I dont have to worry if the trap leaks or someone spills something. I was halfway tempted to prime it and put a coat of poly on it, like rhino liner, to seal it up fo sho'! I need to clean up some cuts on my laundry room shelf, just because my wife decided she wanted the 'stacked' duet instead of the side by side. Oh well. I just use the louhan for the backing. Just to make it look nice and clean. Works out pretty good.
Louhan is the real thin, like 1/4 or 1/8 thick plywood, real flimsy but makes a pretty decent backing for cabinets or shelving. Getting the seams to line up is a major PITA, but it can be done. I like the bead board, or waynes coating, as an option. Especially with a nice chair rail to top it off, or if in a gameroom a 'shelf' kind of like in a pool hall.